Hi, I'm Kristen Shirley, a Bloomberg Pursuits contributor and the founder of La Patiala, the luxury encyclopedia. While I write about everything expensive and shiny with the goal to educate others in their appreciation, jewelry is one of my biggest passions. I love the craftsmanship and design and consider jaw-dropping gemstones natural miracles,formed deep underground millions of years ago. They inspire me all the time. (And yes, they can be ethical.) Just look at these! Diamonds, of course, but yellow sapphires, peridots and alexandrite are among gems that set my heart on fire. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek In a world awash with dupes, the challenge of replicating the look, feel and beauty of real gemstones is evident, even in Hollywood. The jewelry on Bridgerton is laughably bad; The Crown failed with Princess Diana's famous pearl necklace by using a lobster clasp instead of a hidden one; and actress and noted jewelry and watch collector Michelle Yeoh dismissed the initial engagement ring for Crazy Rich Asians because it was not good enough—and brought her own emerald ring to feature in the film. Bridgerton aside, real tiaras are still a thing—and big money for auction and jewelry houses. Illustration: Qianhui Yu These days more collectors and designers are focusing on big, bold statement pieces that simply can't be re-created by mass-market companies. These pieces feature massive gemstones and intricate designs that require an experienced human touch to create. The statement piece, like these Briony Raymond, Belperron and Retrouvai designs, has been making a not-so-stealthy comeback. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek I've seen plenty of glittering diamonds and colorful cabochons and other stunning stones wasted on a tacky or boring design. That's why independent designers are my favorite. They're not beholden to a luxury brand's rich heritage and can branch out and do whatever they want. A recent necklace from Taffin is a showcase for two massive aquamarines. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek Fernando Jorge has been one of my favorite independent designers since he launched his company. I first discovered him at a small stand during London Fashion Week, and it's been thrilling to watch him develop into a top independent brand. His strong aesthetic, known for swooping lines and volume, makes him one of the best designers working today. I also adore Boghossian, a sixth-generation jeweler that has chic designs and uses inlays to craft distinctive pieces. Temple St. Clair leans on traditional techniques at her workshop in Florence, Italy, turning out a menagerie of bejeweled critters and gorgeous amulets. Other favorites include Vanleles, Anna Hu, Ana Khouri and Hemmerle, which each have recognizable designs and the best craftsmanship. Not to be left out, luxury brands are betting men are ready to embrace fancier jewelry, too. Source: Louis Vuitton On the other hand, many big brands work within the rigid borders of the brand's codes. Louis Vuitton, for example, leans heavily into its monogram with custom-cut diamonds—and you can see it a lot on its new fine jewelry collection aimed at men. Chanel has a diamond necklace in the shape of a perfume bottle. It has an exceptional 55.55-carat D Flawless diamond at the center, but the market for that specific design is surely quite limited. One notable exception is Boucheron, which releases two high-jewelry collections a year. The first pays homage to historic pieces and the Boucheron style, and the second is called Carte Blanche and gives its creative director free rein to explore wild sources of inspiration and materials, such as copper, marble and aerogel. Boucheron's Holographique collection features flashing opals, colored gemstones—like this 20.21-carat yellow sapphire here in the center—and holographic ceramic and rock crystal. Source: Boucheron In Businessweek's annual jewelry special, we highlight the work of independent Greek designer Nikos Koulis, revered for his out-of-the-box designs and settings and instantly recognizable aesthetic, and Taffin, a New York-based jeweler known for its use of colorful ceramic and gemstones. I hope it inspires you to pick out a bold piece of jewelry and wear it with pride. Connect with Kristen on Instagram or via e-mail. - Charlize Theron is the new face of Dior high jewelry. I can't wait to see her front campaigns in Dior's wild floral jewelry.
- If the pre-wedding celebration in March is anything to go by, the bling on view at the Ambani wedding in July is going to be next-level.
- Nicolas Bos, who transformed Van Cleef & Arpels into a "powerhouse" will now lead Richemont. It's incredible to see someone so creative and thoughtful become the CEO of a massive luxury conglomerate.
- De Beers' parent company wants to sell it off. Is this a sign of the decline of natural diamonds?
- The New York Jewels Auction at Phillips is headlined by a 45.07-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond, with a high estimate of $3.5 million. I'll be heading to the preview to see this exceptional stone in person.
And don't forget timepieces! Gem-set and high design watches have come into the spotlight, like this vintage Patek Philippe in gold with pearl and enamel accents. Source: Sotheby's |
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