Friday, July 1, 2022

Foodie fireworks

Plus mezcal margs, sushi, ice cream by mail

Hi, Kat Odell here, one of Pursuits' freelance writers generally devoted to food, with some occasional travel sprinkled in. You can find me @kat_odell on Instagram. 

This week I've got mountains and altitude on my mind, and that's because I am headed to Aspen for July 4th. Usually, though, I am out in the Hamptons—and if that's your plan (like so many Bloomberg readers) then you'll want to check out my guides on where to eat and the best places to drink—but this year I am switching things up, for no better reason than to celebrate American independence with a group of eight friends.  

Just another day at the beach at Gurney's, one of the see and be seen party spots in the Hamptons. Source: Gurney's

For me, the weekend brings to mind farm stands, seasonal produce, rosé, and barbecues. I'd argue that July 4th is the summer's best food-focused holiday, is it not? Throw a pool and some sun in the mix, and you've got the fixings for a perfect holiday weekend.  

That's the plan for Aspen, which will be heavy on the (dry-aged beef) grilling vibes. If you need some grill goals of your own, Pursuits delved into fire-focused tech and techniques embraced by top chefs.

Seven things you should never cook on the grill—including burgers. Illustration: Cari Vander Yacht

I am a huge Aaron Franklin fan—he's the dude responsible for, in my opinion, the best barbecue in the country at Austin's Franklin Barbecue. In the piece, Houston-based Chris Shepherd, talks about an online MasterClass that Franklin taught, and he notes, "There was a section of the show on how logs burn and how the taste changes at different times during the burn," and this inspired him to get more serious about his open-flame cooking.

I love that line because it makes sense, yet it's not a detail that I've ever considered in cooking with fire.  

If hot dogs are your grilling vibe, we rounded up 13 of America's best, like this bacon-wrapped beauty from El Güero Canelo in Tuscon, Ariz. Some get pretty wild—and may or may not come garnished with pomegranate seeds?! Photographer: Gregorio Contreras

I and my husband Mike, who for nearly a decade was executive chef at Chicago's only three Michelin star restaurant, Alinea, have also been obsessively making pitas and Neapolitan pizzas (thank you chef Nancy Silverton for a fantastic dough recipe!) in our new Gozney pizza oven, which I can not rave enough about.

We were partially inspired by chef James Wayman's incredible sourdough, thin-crust pizzas that we tried during a reporting trip to Nana's in Mystic, the picturesque Connecticut seaside town named summer's top dining destination. (The spot's puffy, airy doughnuts are not to be missed either.)

Sift bakery is another destination-worthy spot in Mystic, Conn. Photographer: John Shyloski

If you want to get in on this pizza trend—and I recommend you do—make sure that you source high-quality organic bread flour like Bob's Red Mill. Bread flour is higher in protein then all-purpose flour, and that's what will give your pizza some chew.

With regard to tending your oven, be it a Gozney or Ooni (another brand that came highly rated by Pursuits), Mike suggests looking for wood chunks, like oak or apple wood or oak (in general he likes fruit trees for wood), and use those to keep your oven between 800°F to 1000°F. The high temperature will guarantee great flavor and a quick rise in the case of pizza. 

Ooni's Karu 16 Multi-Fuel is another patio-ready pizza oven that pros swear by. Photographer: Hannah Whitaker for Bloomberg Businessweek

If you've gotten that far, one tip for toppings: Be mindful not to add garnishes that are too wet because they will make the center of your pizza flop.

We've made myriad combinations up to this point, but one of my favorites has been fresh Long Island clams with a clam reduction, high quality olive oil (Onsuri from Jordan is incredible), lemon, and lovage (you can swap in fresh parsley). A margherita iteration involved a reduced yellow sungold tomato sauce with burrata, Parmesan, fresh basil and more olive oil. Don't forget to season your pies with salt and pepper, too. 

If you'd rather buy than make a clam pie, Bellucci's in Queens, N.Y., is one worth planning ahead for. Photographer: Evan Ortiz/Bloomberg

And what about drinks?

To wash it all down, naturally there's rosé—by now the national drink of summer or something. The refreshing patio pounder wine is quite food-friendly. Sushi, salads, strawberry shortcake? Check, check, check. Thusly, it's a natural choice for July 4th imbibing, especially with American rosé that rivals anything from France. (Italy has some pretty great value options, too.)

If only French wine will do, Hamptons rosé master Wolffer now offers a Provençal version of its "Summer in a Bottle." Source: Wölffer Estate

Spicy cilantro mezcal margaritas are my signature summer cocktail.

I don't really follow recipes when I make drinks at home, but if you want to make my version, you can follow a recipe like this (swap the green chartreuse for triple sec and make sure to use FRESH lime juice), and add sliced fresh habanero pepper to taste. I switch up the mezcals I use based on what I happen to have at home, but Del Maguey Vida works well.

I tend to batch my cocktails for large groups, so depending on the portion size you're making, go easy on the habanero and taste as you go. If you're making just one cocktail, add one slice of habanero to start. Also add in a handful of fresh cilantro sprigs. And don't forgot to season your drink with sea salt!

I like to let all the flavors mingle at room temperature before serving over ice.

The real secret to Fourth of July drinking: being able to go all day without getting totally smashed. My book Day Drinking is dedicated to 50 low-ABV libations from top bartenders across the country, plus some I wrote myself. Source: Workman

However, it's worthwhile to note that mindful drinking—i.e. non-alcoholic drinks—is on the rise (see above), and should that be you or your guests' thing, here's some booze-free canned options.

My personal favorite is the pink-orange "Champignon Dreams" De Soi sipped out of a Josephinenhütte wine glass. It's flavored with strawberry and apricot juices, plus ingredients like grapefruit and gentian and burdock roots that cut the sweetness for a bitter edge. 

What's else I'm consuming.

  • Living in the city, specifically Dumbo, Brooklyn, I don't have easy access to great farm-sourced produce. I often order from Fresh Catskills, which is a new delivery service that sources wonderful veggies and proteins from Upstate and Pennsylvania farms. If you're planning to grill, the chicken is some of the most delicious I've come across anywhere in New York.
  • Strawberries are in season. And for the last couple of years, I've been making this no-fail, easy-as-pie (HA, get it?) spoon cake recipe. I've swapped in various other fruit, from apples to blueberries to raspberries, over the years, so if you don't have any strawberries, no sweat at all. Top if off while still warm with some Van Leeuwen vanilla bean ice cream and you're golden. 
  • Speaking of summer and ice cream, my nine-month-old puppy Cheese loves these coconut-based ice cream cups for pups!
Bowery Farming, the biggest vertical farm in the U.S., promises a future where delicious strawberries are always in season. Source: Bowery Farming

    Elsewhere in recent Pursuits history ...

    So, you had some questions ...

    So, here's some answers! Keep 'em coming for next week via our Bloomberg Pursuits Instagram and e-mail.

    Why does some omakase sushi cost $100 or less and some $1,000?

    When you sign up to an omakase sushi meal, there are a number of factors that dictate price.

    1. While this is subjective, the talent of the chef affects price. For example, you pay $400+ for a 35-minute meal at Sukiyabashi Jiro (yes from that movie) in Tokyo. You're certainly not paying for his subway station real estate, you're paying for his 90+ years of dedication to the craft before anything else.
    2. Shipping costs. For example Sushi Noz, where a meal costs around $495 per person for 20 or so coursesFedExes their fish overnight to New York from Japan four times per week. Think about how costly it is to overnight anything, let alone 250 pounds of fresh seafood. 
    3. The quality of fish of course enters into the equation. In Japan, some seafood is graded, and the higher the grade the more expensive.
    4. Other ingredients, too, from rice to nori (which is also graded in Japan) to fresh wasabi root, which pound for pound is one of the most expensive ingredients on this planet. Think $250 or more per kilo (2.2 pounds).
    5. The length of time you spend dining is also important to consider. Generally, when you are dropping a few hundred dollars on a meal, operators allows at least two, sometimes three hours for the meal. Those sushi counters usually don't accommodate more than two seatings per night, and they generally have a bar with just eight or so seats. 
    As sushi prices soar, here are eight omakases under $100, like Gouie in New York's Essex Market. Photographer: Keiichiro Maeyama 

    To keep prices down, omakase operators can source fish domestically, which drastically cuts down on shipping costs. They also may source Japanese fish from a New York-based importer, or may skip ordering the top grade. Lower grades of rice and nori reduce costs, too.

    And that doesn't mean that these meals aren't delicious or high-quality—many absolutely are! Think of it more like you're getting a perfectly cooked hanger steak in place of a dry-aged porterhouse.

    Most affordable sushi counters don't offer fresh wasabi either, and they keep meals to a 45-minute maximum, which allows them to offer a handful of seatings per night.

    That's the difference. 

    Did somebody say steak? Here's Smith & Wollensky's secret to making its iconic chops at home—and it's not how you cook them. Photographer: Henry Hargreaves

    Can you recommend a delicious mail-order dessert or ice cream?

    I know this is out of season, but From Roy's panettone is outrageously amazing, especially as breakfast! Room temp or slightly toasted, you can't go wrong. 

    What's so incredible about this classic Italian Christmas bread even in summer is that it stays fresh for a full month, and I am not exaggerating. It's super chewy and moist, and Roy's flavors change all the time, including some oft-changing seasonal flavors that sell out quick. Right now he's offering a classic candied orange raisin.

    As for ice cream, it just so happens I am an ice cream expert. Just kidding (but not really). I make ice cream at home with my husband several times a week, Flavors like Malted brown butter and Basque cheesecake all come together in just 15 minutes using Waring's compressor ice cream maker.

    It's hands down the best ice cream maker for home (or professional) cooks—I've recommended this machine to so many friends.

    What's better than ice cream? Boozy ice cream!  Photographer: Ted + Chelsea Cavanaugh for Bloomberg Businessweek

    Since I am not shipping out our frozen ice cream (maybe one day!), I shall direct your attention to Malai Ice Cream, which is this little Brooklyn-based shop hinged on Indian flavors (and some non-Indian), such as carrot halwa, sweet corn saffron, and sweet roti & ghee. 

    And I am going to give you one more: There's nothing like a perfect summer peach, right? But they can actually be somewhat hard to find; many are so mealy. Well, I know the farm that will ship you the ultimate peaches, so packed with juice it will run down your arm (it did mine). Please see Titan Farms in South Carolina for the goods. 

    Should not eat everything immediately, here's a recipe for delectable peach cake from pastry legend Gina DePalma. Photographer: Kate Krader/Bloomberg

    What's the best place in East Hampton for lunch?

    That's an easy one. Hands down, the only place I go to is Carissa's. I go religiously for breakfast and lunch because Lori Chemla who owns the place (along with pastry whiz Carissa Waechter) is just about the only human on the East End with a restaurant that truly supports local farms with her seasonal menus. You can taste the quality of ingredients she sources in every dish. 

    In the morning I get one of Carissa's flaky croissants paired with a fresh orange juice and cold brew. And don't miss the pickle bread—which is exactly as it sounds—bread made with pureed pickles! Consider those dense, dark rye breads popular in Europe. It's like that, but with a spongy, chewy texture, tastes mildly sour, and is flecked with caraway seeds. It's wildly famous for a reason.

    The salted soured pickled rye is also available via mail order. Source: @carissasbreads via Facebook

    In the afternoon I pop in for lunch—dishes are simple, but dialed in, with a global touch. This past weekend I ordered room temperature noodle salad with Sichuan chili crisp, shiitake mushrooms, plus local radishes and cucumbers. But there's also some great sandwiches like a beet Reuben and classic lobster roll on Waechter's fabulous buns.

    Tip: Weekend lines can be insane. I always order ahead online to cut the queue and take the food to eat at home. Or, let's be honest, in the car on the way home.

    Next week columnist Hannah Elliott will be road tripping to your inbox to discuss convertibles and collecting and everything automotive. Connect with her prior on TwitterInstagram, or e-mail with any questions.

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